Thursday, August 8, 2013
Multi Position Mains Switch
The circuit shown here was born out of necessity after one of our colleagues had just renovated his kitchen and realized afterwards that there were not enough switches. Obviously he was not too keen to partially demolish the kitchen to install a few additional wires in the already tiled wall. That’s how the idea arose to develop a clever electronic circuit that would operate two lamps with only one switch. All this appeared to be easy to realize by adding a small circuit, consisting of a decade counter, a diode network, two relays and a low voltage power supply.
The schematic shows how simple the design of the ‘multi-position‘ extension really is. K3 is connected to the switched wires that go to the original light. K1 and K2 are the connections for the two new lamps. The operation is simply based on the fact that at every low to high transition at the CLK input of IC1 the active output moves over by one position. In combination with the diode network D4 through D7 this ensures that with a single wall switch it becomes possible to control two outputs. When the mains voltage is applied to K3 for the first time, Q0 will be high and Re1 will be energized.
When the mains switch is briefly switched off and then on again it will have no consequences for the 9-V power supply, because C4 is quite large. But this will result in a trigger pulse on the CLK input, so that Q1 will now be high and via D5 and D6 both relays are energised. After another off/on cycle of the mains switch, Q2 will be high, relay Re1 will de-energise and only Re2 is still activated. If we repeat the off/on cycle once more we’re back at the starting position and only Re1 is energized.
If the switch remains in the ‘off’ position then both relays will also be off. A printed circuit board has been designed for this extension so that the entire circuit will fit without any problems in a waterproof enclosure from OKW, Bopla or Schyller. The 9V transformer is also fitted on the PCB. PCB screw terminals can be used for K1, K2 and K3. Since the circuit is directly connected to the mains voltage we emphasis that the well-known safety rules need to be observed. When making any measurements or performing other operations on the circuit is it absolutely necessary to first break the connection to K3!
Resistors:
ReadMore....
The schematic shows how simple the design of the ‘multi-position‘ extension really is. K3 is connected to the switched wires that go to the original light. K1 and K2 are the connections for the two new lamps. The operation is simply based on the fact that at every low to high transition at the CLK input of IC1 the active output moves over by one position. In combination with the diode network D4 through D7 this ensures that with a single wall switch it becomes possible to control two outputs. When the mains voltage is applied to K3 for the first time, Q0 will be high and Re1 will be energized.
When the mains switch is briefly switched off and then on again it will have no consequences for the 9-V power supply, because C4 is quite large. But this will result in a trigger pulse on the CLK input, so that Q1 will now be high and via D5 and D6 both relays are energised. After another off/on cycle of the mains switch, Q2 will be high, relay Re1 will de-energise and only Re2 is still activated. If we repeat the off/on cycle once more we’re back at the starting position and only Re1 is energized.
If the switch remains in the ‘off’ position then both relays will also be off. A printed circuit board has been designed for this extension so that the entire circuit will fit without any problems in a waterproof enclosure from OKW, Bopla or Schyller. The 9V transformer is also fitted on the PCB. PCB screw terminals can be used for K1, K2 and K3. Since the circuit is directly connected to the mains voltage we emphasis that the well-known safety rules need to be observed. When making any measurements or performing other operations on the circuit is it absolutely necessary to first break the connection to K3!
Resistors:- R1,R2 = 10kΩ
- R3 = 33kΩ
- R4 = 100kΩ
- R5 = 10kΩ
- C1 = 100nF
- C2 = 10µF 63V
- C3 = 4µF7 63V radial
- C4 = 470µF 16V radial
- C5 = 2µF2 63V axial
- D1-D7 = 1N4148
- D8 = 1N4001
- T2,T3 = BC547B
- IC1 = 4017
- IC2 = 78L09
- K1,K2,K3 = 2-way PCB
- terminal block, lead pitch 7.5mm
- T r1 = mains transformer 9V 1.5VA
- B1 = B80C1500 (round case) (80V piv, 1.5A)
- Re1, Re2 = 12V relay
Monday, August 5, 2013
Simple 12 16V Converter Circuit Diagram
This is simple 12 -16V converter circuit diagram . Many devices operate from a car`s 12-V electrical system. Some require 12 V; others require some lesser voltage. An automobile battery`s output can vary from 12 to 13.8 V under normal circumstances. The load requirements of the device might vary.
This circuit maintains a constant voltage regardless of how those factors change. Simple circuit, A, uses a 7805 voltage regulator.In addition to a constant output, this JC provides overload and short-circuit protection. That unit is a 5-V, 1-A regulator, but when placed in circuit B, it can provide other voltages as well. When the arm of potentiometer R1 is moved toward ground, the output varies from 5 to about 10 V.
Simple 12 -16V Converter Circuit Diagram
Friday, August 2, 2013
Happy Couse Very usefull using Schumacher XC103 SpeedCharger
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Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Heating System Thermostat Circuit
This circuit is intended to control a heating system or central heating plan, keeping constant indoor temperature in spite of wide range changes in the outdoor one. Two sensors are needed: one placed outdoors, in order to sense the external temperature; the other placed on the water-pipe returning from heating system circuit, short before its input to the boiler.The Relay contact wiring must be connected to the boilers start-stop control input. This circuit, though simple, has proven very reliable: in fact it was installed over 20 years ago at one of my friends home. I know, it is a bit old: but it is still doing its job very well and without problems of any kind.
Parts:
P1 = 1K Linear Potentiometer
R1 = 10R-1/4W Resistor
R2 = 1K-1/4W Resistor
R3 = 3K3 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
R4 = 2K2 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
R5 = 10K-1/2W Trimmer Cermet
R6 = 3K3-1/4W Resistor
R7 = 4K7-1/4W Resistors
R8 = 470K-1/4W Resistor
R9 = 4K7-1/4W Resistors
R10 = 10K-1/4W Resistor
C1 = 470µF-25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C2 = 470µF-25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C3 = 1µF-63V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
D2 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
D4 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
D3 = LED Red 3 or 5mm.
Q1 = BC557 - 45V 100mA PNP Transistor
Q2 = BC547 - 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q3 = BC337 - 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
J1 = Two ways output socket
T1 = 220V Primary, 12 + 12V Secondary 3VA Mains transformer
PL1 = Male Mains plug &cable
SW1 = SPST Mains Switch
RL1 = Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm
When Q1 Base to ground voltage is less than half voltage supply (set by R7 & R9), a voltage is generated across R8 and the driver transistors Q2 & Q3 switch-on the Relay. When Q1 Base to ground voltage is more than half voltage supply, caused when one of the n.t.c. Thermistors lowers its value due to an increase in temperature, no voltage appears across R8 and the Relay is off. C3 allows a clean switching of the Relay. P1 acts as main temperature control.
Notes:
* R3 is the outdoor sensor, R4 the indoor sensor.
* If you are unable to find a 3K3 Thermistor for R3 you can use a 4K7 value instead. The different value can be easily compensated by means of Trimmer R5.
* R5 allows setting the heating system for outdoor temperatures ranging from about +10°C downwards. The higher R5s resistance the hotter the heating system and vice versa.
* The existing boiler thermostat should be set to its maximum value and not bypassed: it is necessary for safetys sake.
* This circuit can be dispensed with its differential feature and converted into a simple precision thermostat omitting R3.
ReadMore....
Parts:
P1 = 1K Linear Potentiometer
R1 = 10R-1/4W Resistor
R2 = 1K-1/4W Resistor
R3 = 3K3 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
R4 = 2K2 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
R5 = 10K-1/2W Trimmer Cermet
R6 = 3K3-1/4W Resistor
R7 = 4K7-1/4W Resistors
R8 = 470K-1/4W Resistor
R9 = 4K7-1/4W Resistors
R10 = 10K-1/4W Resistor
C1 = 470µF-25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C2 = 470µF-25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C3 = 1µF-63V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
D2 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
D4 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
D3 = LED Red 3 or 5mm.
Q1 = BC557 - 45V 100mA PNP Transistor
Q2 = BC547 - 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q3 = BC337 - 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
J1 = Two ways output socket
T1 = 220V Primary, 12 + 12V Secondary 3VA Mains transformer
PL1 = Male Mains plug &cable
SW1 = SPST Mains Switch
RL1 = Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm
When Q1 Base to ground voltage is less than half voltage supply (set by R7 & R9), a voltage is generated across R8 and the driver transistors Q2 & Q3 switch-on the Relay. When Q1 Base to ground voltage is more than half voltage supply, caused when one of the n.t.c. Thermistors lowers its value due to an increase in temperature, no voltage appears across R8 and the Relay is off. C3 allows a clean switching of the Relay. P1 acts as main temperature control.
Notes:
* R3 is the outdoor sensor, R4 the indoor sensor.
* If you are unable to find a 3K3 Thermistor for R3 you can use a 4K7 value instead. The different value can be easily compensated by means of Trimmer R5.
* R5 allows setting the heating system for outdoor temperatures ranging from about +10°C downwards. The higher R5s resistance the hotter the heating system and vice versa.
* The existing boiler thermostat should be set to its maximum value and not bypassed: it is necessary for safetys sake.
* This circuit can be dispensed with its differential feature and converted into a simple precision thermostat omitting R3.
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Signal Isolation Bags
Earlier study indicated that, although mobile phones and other portable electronic products bring the people the convenience of communication and exchange, they are "eating" less and less of our time pieces, so many people suffer from a "mobile phone addiction." and here this product is designed to address this issue.
This designer bags that allow you to isolate the signal can temporarily allow communication devices such as mobile phones from your side "disappear." Lined bags are coated with colloidal silver, both radio frequency isolation, but can also phone sterilization, the true sense of the times you return to no signal. In addition, this signal isolation bags in various sizes, suitable for most currently available mobile phones and tablet PCs. I do not know why, I can not help but think of the iPhone4 "death grip." . .
ReadMore....
This designer bags that allow you to isolate the signal can temporarily allow communication devices such as mobile phones from your side "disappear." Lined bags are coated with colloidal silver, both radio frequency isolation, but can also phone sterilization, the true sense of the times you return to no signal. In addition, this signal isolation bags in various sizes, suitable for most currently available mobile phones and tablet PCs. I do not know why, I can not help but think of the iPhone4 "death grip." . .
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